The more you know…

Excerpted from The Healthy Skin Handbook, available from www.naturescommonscents.com.

If you have a chronic skin issue, look closely not only at your food and cosmetics, but also your work and home environment, including pets, where you “play,” your medicine cabinet, and all cosmetics / toiletries. Learn as much as possible about what you are breathing and coming into contact with, keeping in mind that poisons can and do come into our bodies through our skin. An amazing 30% of the waste leaving our bodies is excreted through the skin, meaning toxins we don’t even know we’ve ingested spend time on our skin while exiting our bodies. And while it is easy to blame factories, automobiles, petroleum companies, etc., skin is affected adversely by the natural environment too — unwise exposure to sun, wind, heat, cold, salt and even water can bother and/or damage skin. Most of us know that there are environmental dangers comes from being in crowded cities, near factories, or on busy roads. But there are some surprising dangers we can avoid. In an article called Ranking Possible Carcinogenic Risk published in Science Magazine in 1987, things we come into contact daily are rated by percentage of danger. Even foods in the average diet have a risk, albeit relatively low. Beer and wine rank thousands of times higher and sleeping pills tens of thousands of times more. So what does all that mean? Well, for one thing, it means your body is a pretty efficient machine to be able to rid itself of all those toxins. But even the best machines can get worn down. The same toxins that can cause cancer can cause a myriad of skin afflictions. That is why to be healthy outside and in we must help our bodies as much as possible.

Benzene.

While we may think that knowledge about the danger of chemicals is relatively new, it really isn’t. As early as the 1920s, benzene was linked to leukemia. The American Petroleum Institute noted in the 1940s benzene caused leukemia and indicated that any level of exposure to benzene posed risks. Benzene, a component of products derived from coal and petroleum, is found in gasoline and other fuels. It is also used in the manufacture of plastics, detergents, pesticides, and other chemicals. Long-term exposure may affect bone marrow and blood production. Short-term exposure to high levels of benzene can cause drowsiness, dizziness, unconsciousness, and death. (For more information, visit www.benzene-AML- leukemia.com) Exposure to benzene is an issue for those who work in the oil, shipping, automobile repair, shoe manufacture and other such industries, those who use solvents, paint, gasoline, or who work in oil refineries, chemical labs, the rubber industry, pesticide manufacturing, printing/newspapers, paper, pulp and leather manufacturing, and adhesive production. Is your eczema due to benzene exposure?

Formaldehyde.

Formaldehyde is a highly toxic substance, a known cancer-causing agent that damages the neurological connectors in the body. It is an irritant to the eyes, nose, throat and lungs. But regardless of this, cosmetics often contain formaldehyde or a formaldehyde-releasing substance. In the United States many cosmetics contain Quaternium 15, which is a formaldehyde releasing agent. Formaldehyde is commonly found in the following products: air fresheners, anti-perspirants, cosmetics, cleaning products, drugs, dry cleaning solvents, fingernail polish, floor polishes, fungicides, hairspray, hair setting and straightening lotions, laundry spray starch, mouthwash, perfumes, shampoos, toothpaste and waxes. Formaldehyde goes by many different names (asterisk denotes trade name): formalin, methanol, Methyl Aldehyde, Methylene Oxide, Oxymethylene Bfv*, Fannoform*, Formol*, Fyde*, Karsan*, Methaldehyde, Formalith*, Methylene Glycol, Ivalon*, Oxomethane, Formalin 40, Formalin, Formic Aldehyde, Hoch, Paraform, Lysoform*, Morbocid, Trioxane, Polyoxmethylene. Is your irritating cough due to formaldehyde?

Phenol.

Phenol (also known as carbolic acid). Phenol is an extremely caustic chemical that burns the skin. Absorption of phenol through the lungs or skin can cause: central nervous system damage, pneumonia, respiratory tract infection, heart-rate irregularities, skin irritation, kidney and liver damage, numbness, and vomiting. Phenol poisoning can be fatal. Phenol is regularly found in the following common products: air fresheners, after shave, bronchial mists, chloroseptic throat spray, deodorants, feminine powders and sprays, hair spray, decongestants, mouthwash, aspirin, solvents, acne medications, antiseptics, calamine lotions, cleaning products, detergents, furniture polish, hair setting lotions, lice shampoo, polishes, cold capsules, all-purpose cleaners, aerosol disinfectants, anti-itching lotions, carnex, cosmetics, disinfectant cleaner, hand lotions, lip balms, sunscreen and lotions, insecticides, cough syrups, and more! Is your scratchy throat due to phenol?

Dioxin.

Dioxins are highly toxic to the cells of our bodies. Science has determined how much dioxin is considered “normal.” Johns Hopkins has published a warning regarding putting too much of this chemical in our bodies and a few things we can do to avoid it: Don’t use plastic containers or plastic wrap in the microwave and don’t freeze your water bottles. Dioxins cause cancer, especially breast cancer. Freezing plastic water bottles releases dioxins from the plastic into the water. Refilling them for repeat use is not a good idea for the same reason. Heating food in the microwave using plastic containers releases dioxins into the food and ultimately into the cells of the body. Plastic wraps placed over foods as they are being microwaved can actually drip toxins into the food. Use tempered glass instead. If you cook in a microwave, to protect yourself from dioxins, such things as TV dinners, instant noodles and soups, should be removed from the container and heated in tempered glass. One of the reasons fast food restaurants went from the Styrofoam containers to paper some years ago was in response to the dioxin problem.

Phthalates.

Shown to damage the liver, kidneys, lungs and reproductive systems in animal studies, phthalates can be absorbed through the skin or inhaled. Scientists in the U.S. and Canada agree that exposure could cause a wide range of health and reproductive problems. Because phthalate plasticizers are not chemically bound to PVC, they can easily leach and evaporate into cosmetics, food or the atmosphere.

Teens and cosmetic chemicals.

Emerging research suggests that teens may be particularly sensitive to exposures to trace levels of hormone-disrupting chemicals. Environmental Working Group (EWG) detected 16 chemicals from 4 chemical families — phthalates, triclosan, parabens, and musks — in blood and urine samples from teen girls aged 14-19. These tests feature first-ever exposure data for parabens in teens, and indicate that young women are widely exposed to this common class of cosmetic preservatives. Is your teen experiencing hormonal problems?

A Balancing Act.

Only you can determine if any of these things are affecting you and your family adversely or if they are ingredients you need to avoid. It wouldn’t be possible to avoid all environmental toxins, and our bodies are good at expelling them if we give them the appropriate tools, like a good diet and enough of the right nutrients. While the following pages of chemical names and the issues they may create are interesting (sometimes horrifying) to read, more important is for you to know the ingredients in your skin care products and compare those with that list.

A good first step is to know what we need to avoid and eliminate those things as much as is within our power. High on the list of things we can avoid are the many chemicals common in skin care products. 

In an attempt to clear up a rash on her face, my daughter, Tricia, applied a product that is known to be “gentle and safe” for the skin.  Despite the fact that the ingredients were what most of us have always considered harmless, her face started burning. Something in it caused a terrible reaction to this then thirty-four year old woman who had no history of skin problems. (We finally were able to determine that it was lactic acid.)

Though it can be an uncomfortable experience, it can be a good thing if a product bothers your skin right away, because you will know what to avoid. 

Below begins a list of ingredients you may find in products you use either on your skin or in your house or workplace and reasons you might want to exclude them from your life.

Terms and Definitions.

Abietic Acid:  Used to create a pleasant texture in cosmetics and soaps.  Has been shown to cause paralysis in laboratory animals.  Known to be irritating to human skin and may cause allergic reactions.Acetamide Mea:  A chemical solvent used in skin creams; shown to cause cancer when given orally to laboratory animals.Acrylic Acid:  A synthetic polymer used as a binder and film-former in dyes, adhesives, permanent-press fabrics and now, skin creams.  Toxic by skin absorption. 

Aluminum Acetate:  Used in skin creams as an astringent. This chemical was originally developed for waterproofing fabrics. Ingestion may cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea and bleeding. Prolonged use topically can produce severe sloughing of the skin.

Arachidonic Acid: Used by the cosmetic industry to emulsify cream, this fatty acid is extracted from animal liver and has been shown to alter the skin's natural immune response.

Behenyl Alcohol: Used for manufacturing synthetic fabrics, insecticides and lubricants, and now, used by cosmetic companies in skin cream as a thickener and emulsifier.  

Benzophenone-2: Used to retain fragrance scents, may produce hives and contact sensitivity. 

Benzalkonium Chloride (BAK):  A widely used germicide known to cause allergic conjunctivitis.  Lethal to frogs. Highly toxic.  In 1992, the FDA proposed a ban on the use of this item for treating insect bites and stings.  Has not been shown to be safe in concentrations over 0.1%, but it is allowed to be used in cosmetics in concentrations up to 5%. 

Benzocaine (Ethyl Amino benzoate): Used in creams and lotions to help sooth the skin.  Some reports of adverse reactions in babies and adults when absorbed through the skin.  

Beta-Naphthol: Used in skin-peeling preparations.  Derived from coal tar.  Ingestion may cause kidney damage, eye injury, vomiting, diarrhea, Ingestion may cause kidney damage, eye injury, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, anemia, and death. Fatal poisoning from topical applications have been reported. 

Bithionol: Used as a germicide in skin creams.  This germicide is closely related to hexachlorophene, which has already been banned by the FDA.  Can cause sensitivity to light, skin rashes and skin swelling. 

Borates:  In spite of repeated warnings from the medical community, the cosmetic industry continues to use borates as a cosmetic preservative.  Acute poisonings have followed ingestion and lavage of body cavities and application to abraded skin. Borates affects the central nervous system, gastrointestinal tract, kidneys, liver and skin. 

Butyl Oleate:  Derived from butyl alcohol and oleic acid, this chemical is used for manufacturing industrial solvents and lubricants and now, used as a skin conditioning ingredient in skin creams. 

Butylene Glycol: Used in cosmetics to resist humidity, to retain scents and as a preservative.  Has a similar toxicity as ethylene glycol, which when ingested may cause depression, vomiting, drowsiness, coma, respiratory failure, convulsions, renal damage, kidney failure and death.

Calcium Chloride: Used in fire extinguishers, as a wood preservative, and to melt snow and ice.  Used in cosmetics as an emulsifier and texturizer. Ingestion can cause stomach and heart issues.

Calcium Hydroxide: Used for manufacturing mortar, plaster, cement and pesticides. Also used by the cosmetic industry in cream and lotion depilatories.  Accidental ingestion can cause burns of the throat and esophagus. Death may occur from shock and asphyxia due to swelling of the glottis. 

Calcium Sulfate: Also known as Plaster of Paris.  Generally used in cements and wall plasters.  Calcium Sulfate is now being used by the cosmetic industry as a skin firming ingredient.  Accidental ingestion may result in intestinal obstruction.   When mixed with flour, Calcium Sulfate can be used to kill rodents. 

Calcium Thioglycolate: Customarily used for tanning leather, it is now also  used in cream depilatories (removing hair).  Has been shown to cause thyroid problems in experimental animals and some people develop hemorrhaging under the skin when used topically. 

Carbolic Acid:  Also known as Phenol. Used in creams and lotions for its disinfectant and anesthetic properties. Derived from coal tar.  Ingestion of even small amounts may cause nausea, vomiting, and circulatory collapse, paralysis, convulsions, coma, and greenish urine as well as necrosis of the mouth and the gastrointestinal tract. 

Carboxypolymethylene:   Also known as Carbomer -934, -940, -941, and as Carbopol.  This synthetic chemical is widely used in the cosmetic industry as a thickening agent and emulsifying ingredient. 

Cocamide DEA:  A DEA derivative. Used in cosmetics as an emulsifying agent. Considered to be highly toxic. 

Cyclomethicone: Silicone 

Desoxycholic Acid:  Used as an emulsifying ingredient in cosmetics.  Generally regarded as safe (GRAS) by the FDA, but is known to cause tumors in laboratory animals.

Dibenzothiophene:  Also known as Thioxanthene and Diphenylene Sulfide.  Used in cosmetics to add a green fluorescence.  No known toxicity when applied to the skin, but when ingested can affect the central nervous system, the blood, and blood pressure.   Also used as a psycho pharmaceutical ingredient to treat mental disorders.

DEA:  An abbreviation for Diethanolamine whish is used in cosmetics as an emulsifying agent.  Considered to be highly toxic when used in industrial applications, and has been proven to cause cancer when applied to the skin of rats.  And yet, this ingredient, and its derivatives, is permitted to be used in cosmetic products at limited levels.  Derivative ingredients may appear as cocamide DEA or lauromide DEA.

Diethylene Glycol: This chemical is actually a solvent and is used to enhance the absorption of other ingredients in skin creams.  Not usually irritating to the skin, but can be fatal if swallowed. 

Diethylstilbestrol (DES):  Also known as Stilbestrol.  A synthetic estrogen fed to cattle and poultry to fatten them.  This chemical is now being sold to the cosmetic industry as a synthetic hormone for use in skin care products.  This chemical is a known carcinogen and linked to a rare form of vaginal cancer. 

Dimethoxy Methane: Used as a solvent in cosmetics and perfumes.  Toxic by ingestion and inhalation. 

Epichlorohydrin: Used as a solvent in cosmetic manufacturing.  Also used for manufacturing varnishes and lacquers.  Chronic exposure is known to cause kidney damage. 

Ethoxyethanol:  Used as a stabilizer in cosmetic emulsions. Its toxicity has been shown to be several times greater than polyethylene glycol in laboratory animal tests. Produces central nervous system depression and kidney damage. 

Ethyl Hexanediol: Used as a solvent for manufacturing cosmetics.  Skin application caused birth defects in laboratory animals.  

Ethylene Dichloride (EDC): A solvent used in manufacturing cosmetics.  Also used for manufacturing vinyl chloride, paint, varnish, and as a lead scavenger in antiknock gasoline.  The National Cancer Institute found this compound caused stomach cancer and vascularized cancers of multiple organs.  It also produced cancers beneath the skin in male rats, and female rats developed mammary cancers. 

Ethylene Glycol:  A chemical solvent used for manufacturing cosmetics.  Also used as antifreeze.

Ethylenediamine Tetraacetic Acid (EDTA): Widely used by cosmetic manufacturers as a sequestering preservative. It may be irritating to the skin and mucous membranes and can cause allergies such as asthma and skin rashes.

Euxyl K 400:  This is one of the newer, more modern preservatives used in skin creams.  There are increasing reports from physicians regarding patients who are sensitive to it, and physicians are being encouraged to test it with their patients for allergic contact dermatitis.

Fibroin Copolmyer:  A synthetic polymer used as a binder and film-former in dyes, adhesives, permanent-press fabrics and skin creams. Toxic by skin absorption. 

Glycolic Acid: Derived from fruit juice, an inexpensive organic acid used for brightening copper. Used in cosmetics when a cheap (inexpensive) organic acid is required.  When applied to the skin, it has the potential to cause sun sensitivity and irritation. 

Isopropyl Alcohol:  Also known as Isopropanol.  A solvent used in many cosmetic products.  Derived from propylene, which is obtained from petroleum.  Also used in antifreeze and shellac.  No known toxicity when applied topically to the skin, but as little as one fluid ounce is fatal if ingested. 

Lactic Acid: Made from a process of bacterial fermentation, it is caustic in concentrated solutions when applied to the skin, and may cause stinging. 

Lauromide DEA:  Used in cosmetics as an emulsifying agent.  Considered to be highly toxic. This is a DEA derivative. See DEA. 

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate: Used primarily as a thickener in cosmetics. Considered safe, but he World Health Organization sought investigation because of kidney damage found in dogs that ingested it. 

Methylparaben:  See parabens. 

Methylisothiazolinone and/or Methylchloroisothiazolinone: Used in cosmetics as a broad spectrum preservative.  It is moderately toxic when applied to the skin. 

Mineral Oil:  Also known as White Oil. This is a petroleum by-product which can clog pores.  Mineral oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons, and not particularly beneficial for any skin type, and yet, because it is cheap and stable from spoilage, is widely used in many skin care products.   

Morpholine:  An inexpensive solvent used as a emulsifier in cosmetics.  Also used as an insecticide and fungicide. 

Nickel Sulfate:  Used in hair dyes and astringents. Its systemic effects include blood vessel, brain, and kidney damage and nervous depression.

Nitrobenzene (also known as Essence of Mirabane):  Used as a cheap scent in inexpensive cosmetic products.  Also used as a solvent for manufacturing metal polish, shoe polish and many other products.  Rapidly absorbed through the skin. Poisonous.  Exposure may cause headaches, drowsiness, nausea, vomiting, lack of oxygen in the blood (methemoglobinemia), and cyanosis.

Parabens:  Butylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben are the most commonly used cosmetic preservatives in the United States. They are inexpensive, which makes them desirable. Found in approximately 20,000 personal care products, including "natural" products, any of the above may cause allergic reactions and dermatitis. Studies have shown that parabens can also penetrate the skin and seep into the tissue. This concerns researchers because parabens have been shown to be able to mimic the action of estrogen, which can encourage breast cancer cell growth. In a UK study, 20 breast tumors were analyzed and high concentrations of parabens were found in 18 of the 20 tumors. From the research it is not possible to determine whether the parabens actually caused the tumors, but this does raise many concerns. 

PEG:  This is an abbreviation for polyethylene glycol (see polyethylene). Available in many molecular weights, such as PEG-4 or PEG-350.  The number stands for liquidity.  The higher the number, the harder the composition.  Widely used for cosmetic cream bases as a binder, plasticizing ingredient, solvent and softener.  Also used for hair straighteners, antiperspirants and nail polish removers. 

Petrolatum:   This chemical lubricant is made using methane and olefin semisolid hydrocarbons which are derived from petroleum.  Used to make skin creams feel smoother. Generally non-toxic, though individuals having hypersensitive skin may have  reactions. 

Phenol: Also known as Carbolic Acid.  Used in creams and lotions for its disinfectant and anesthetic properties. Derived from coal tar.  Ingestion of even small amounts may cause nausea, vomiting, and circulatory collapse, paralysis, convulsions, coma, and greenish urine, as well as necrosis of the mouth and the gastrointestinal tract. 

Polyacrylamide:  Used by the cosmetic industry as a thickening ingredient for creams.  Also used for manufacturing plastics and adhesives.  This chemical is highly toxic and irritating to the skin.  Causes central nervous system paralysis.  

Polybutene: Used in cosmetics as a plasticizer.  Derived from petroleum.  Also used for manufacturing adhesives. Considered safe for cosmetic use as currently used. 

Polyethylene:  Widely used in creams and lotions. No known skin toxicity, but implants in rats caused cancer. Ingestion of large oral doses has produced kidney and liver damage.

Potassium Hydroxide:  Used as an emulsifier in creams and lotions.  Extremely corrosive, and if ingested may cause violent pain, bleeding, collapse, and death. 

PG: An abbreviation for Propylene Glycol. Propylene Glycol is widely used in skin cream, and many other personal care products.  Propylene Glycol is also one of the key ingredients in embalming fluid, anti-freeze, brake fluid, hydraulic fluid, de-icer, paints and floor wax.  The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Propylene Glycol clearly states:   "Implicated in contact dermatitis, kidney damage and liver abnormalities; Can inhibit skin cell growth in human tests, and can damage cell membranes causing rashes, dry skin and surface damage." The MSDS also cautions:  Acute Effects:  "May be harmful by inhalation, ingestion or skin absorption.  May cause eye irritation, skin irritation. Exposure can cause gastrointestinal disturbances, nausea, headache, vomiting and central nervous system depression."  Propylene glycol is toxic, and it will actually retard your skin's ability to maintain normal cellular regeneration. In 1992, the FDA proposed a ban on Propylene Glycol in louse-killing products because it has not been shown to be safe and effective for its stated claims, yet, it is allowed to be used in cosmetics in concentrations up to 50%. 

Quaternarium-15:  A water-soluble antimicrobial ingredient that is active against bacteria.  It is a formaldehyde releaser, and is the number-one cause of dermatitis from preservatives, according to the American Academy of Dermatology's Testing Tray results. 

Salicylic Acid:  Widely used for the removal of warts. When large amounts are absorbed through the skin it may cause vomiting, abdominal pain, increased respiration, acidosis, mental disturbances, and skin rashes. Avoid contact with face, genitals, and mucous membranes.  

Sodium Hydroxide: A common ingredient used in household liquid drain cleaners and now, skin creams.  Ingestion causes vomiting, prostration, and collapse.  Inhalation causes lung damage.

SLS:  Abbreviation for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Often used in toothpaste and face creams.  SLS is known to causes eye irritations, skin rashes, hair loss, scalp scurf similar to dandruff, and many other allergic reactions. This is a industrial strength chemical which is outstanding for cleaning grease off concrete or car engines, is frequently disguised in pseudo-natural cosmetics with the parenthetic explanation "comes from coconut.” 

Stearalkonium Chloride: A toxic chemical developed for the fabric industry to promote fabric softness, now used in face creams.

Synthetic Colors: Usually labeled as FD&C or D&C, followed by a color and a number. Many synthetic colors are believed to be cancer-causing agents. 

Synthetic Fragrances: The synthetic fragrances used in cosmetics can have as many as 200 ingredients. There is no way to know what the chemicals are, since the label will simply say "Fragrance.”   Some of the problems caused by these chemicals are headaches, dizziness, rash, hyperpigmentation, violent coughing, vomiting, skin irritation.

Trichloroethane:  Used in cosmetics as a solvent and for de-greasing.  Can be absorbed through the skin. Inhalation and ingestion can cause symptoms ranging from vomiting to death. 

Triclocarban:  Also known as Trichlorocarbanilide and TCC. A cosmetic ingredient used for killing bacteria.  Lab tests indicate it may be toxic to animals. 

Triethanolamine (abbreviated TEA):A chemical used in cosmetics to adjust the pH, and also used as an emulsifier.  May cause allergic reactions, including eye problems, dryness of skin, and could be toxic if absorbed into the body over a long period of time. Used as a chemical coating to preserve fresh fruit. Concentration should not exceed 5% when used in products that come in contact with the skin. 

Trioctanoin:  Derived from coconut, a mildly toxic, oily, preservative.  Known to cause skin irritation, and known to cause mutations in experimental animals. 

Tripolyphosphate:  Used as a water softener and emulsifier. May cause esophageal stricture and violent vomiting if swallowed. 

IMPORTANT NOTE: This list is for information purposes only and is not intended to be a complete list of chemicals in skin care products, nor does a lack of mention indicate or imply that the omitted ingredient is safe or harmless. Further the author does not intend to imply that any particular individual will necessarily have a problem with the chemical listed. Readers are encouraged to research any ingredient about which he/she has a concern and learn for themselves what is best for them.